
The Pilgrim’s Pouch: Stone Crosses
Besides the milestones, along the pilgrim’s path, you already or will encounter stone crosses, Cruceiros in Spanish. These crosses were traditionally associated with the forgiveness of sins, as affirmed by Spanish author and politician Castelao, and with the protection of pilgrims on their journey toward sacred places. A number of these crosses are truly elaborate, with an image of the crucified Christ on the front, and an image of Our Lady or a biblical scene on the back.
Similar crosses also form an integral part of the Maltese countryside. Generally, we refer to the as ‘Dejma Crosses’ because sometimes they served as gathering points for the militia composed of men between the ages of 18 and 60 who, after a day’s work, would take turns keeping watch at night against pirate attacks—or even go out to confront them.
However, the true origin of these crosses, found both in the countryside and in inhabited areas, is unknown. Perhaps, some may have been erected to mark the site of a former chapel. mark the boundaries between villages, or between jurisdictions especially during the time of the Knights of the Order of St John. In that historical period, some areas fell under the Knights, others under the Bishop or the Inquisitor, and there were even places governed by the Universtas of Mdina. Some crosses were erected in remembrance of a historical event, legend, or for a particular devotion. A number of these crosses also have an indulgence attached to them for those who stop and pray before them. These crosses also served as pilgrimage destinations for prayers related to the agricultural year. These were sometimes decorated with red damask, flowers, and oil lamps.
Along this journey together, we have already paused to reflect on the cross in connection with the red crosses in the form of a dagger found on the pilgrim’s scallop shells, as a symbol of a shame which saves, a scandal that builds up, and a foolishness that reveals wisdom. However, in John’s Gospel, we are given a somewhat different perspective on the Cross—one that goes a step beyond simply recognizing it as a means of redemptive suffering. On three occasions, Jesus speaks of the Cross as though it were the moment of His glorification. During His encounter at night with Nicodemus, Jesus recalls an episode from the Old Testament through which He explains to Nicodemus how he will accomplish complete—not just partial—salvation of humanity (see Num 21:9), similar to the mercy Moses pleaded for on behalf of his people: “And just as Moses lifted up the serpent in the desert, so must the Son of Man be lifted up, in order that everyone who believes in him may have eternal life” (Jn 3:14-15).
In chapter 8, after saving the woman caught in adultery from being stoned, Jesus engages in a heated debate with the Pharisees and Jews about His identity as the Son of God. Since they fail to recognize the truth in His words, Jesus subtly gives them the sign of the Cross as a concrete proof of what He was saying: “When you have lifted up the Son of Man, then you will know that I AM, that I do nothing on my own authority and I say nothing except what the Father has taught me” (Jn 8:28).
For the third time, after His triumphant entry into Jerusalem riding on a colt, facing the mystery of suffering that He was to endure in a few days, despite His Soul was troubled, He still kept a clear perspective, so much so that he declared strongly: “And when I am lifted up from the earth, I will draw all to myself” (Jn 12:32).
These crosses of stone—and we can also include the statues or niches that we find here and there—serve the purpose of lifting us up in this continuous motion of Christ who, like a magnet of love, tirelessly draws all people to Himself. The vertical and horizontal beams of the cross become as a ladder fixed in the ground with its summit in heaven, with the angels ascending and descending upon it as Jacob saw in a dream (Gen 28:10-22). In that dream, God renewed His fidelity to the promise He made to Abraham … a promise that found its fulfilment in Jesus Christ. Jacob understood that that place was holy. So he took the stone he used as a pillow, erected it as a pillar and poured oil on it. He named that place Betel, the house of God.
On your journey you will come across many objects that can seem simply decorative or artistic objects, but which serve as a window which opens up on that which lies beyond, stirring within us the fundamental longing of every person for union with the transcendent that goes beyond the limited horizon of our existence. This applies not only to the aforementioned crosses, but also to breathtaking views, a delicate flower, or any other creature that, in itself, points towards the Creator. Sometimes, it might even be a striking geological formation, a wayside chapel, or another structure that moves not just our curiosity and admiration but also stirs a chord that continues in a melody within our hearts.
Moments like these are so intimate that you wish they would never end; they almost make you forget that you are on a pilgrimage. However, these are only brief moments that give meaning and find meaning within the context of the entire journey. So don’t waste your time taking selfies with what fills you with awe, because it isn’t as important to show others where you were and what you have seen. However, it is not a bad idea to stop and let yourself be captivated by beauty, perhaps just snapping a quick photo to preserve the memory, the emotion you experienced, what was stirred or awakened in your heart so that, when you look at that photo again, you remember and relive the sweetness of that moment in the depths of your soul, a moment that is difficult to put into words, unless expressed through the verses of a poem …
Vexilla Regis: A hymn to the Holy Cross
The banners of the King go forth,
the gleaming myst’ry of the Cross,
by which the Maker of all flesh
was yoked in flesh upon the wood;Where, wounded as he hung on high
by ruthless blade of sharpened spear,
there flowed forth water mixed with blood,
to wash us clean from ev’ry sin.O noble tree with blood adorned,
the splendid purple of the King,
wood chosen from a worthy stock
to touch and bear such holy limbs.O blessed tree whose branches bore
the price and ransom of the world!
Like scales it weighed the body’s worth
and bore away the spoils of hell.Hail altar, victim, sacrifice,
for glory gained through grief and death,
by which our Life endured to die
and through his death restored our life.O Cross, all hail, our only hope!
In this most holy Passiontide,
increase the grace of loving hearts
and rid the guilty of their sin.O Triune God, let all sing praise
to you, the font of saving grace;
sustain for ever those you save
by wondrous myst’ry of the Cross. Amen.